Backpacking Sikkim — Complete Travel Guide to Gangtok, Nathu La & South Sikkim

Having a friend in Siliguri made me plan a bold trip to Sikkim all the way from Delhi (as if there are no hill stations up north of Delhi :) ). Naturally, travelling by flight was my natural option to save valuable time. There are many ways reaching Siliguri.

This guide covers a solo backpacking trip to Sikkim — Gangtok, Nathu La pass on the Indo-China border, Changu Lake, Temi Tea Estate, Ravangla Buddha Park, Samdruptse, and Namchi Char Dham. Here’s everything you need to plan the same trip including permits, how to reach, and what to expect at each stop.

How to Reach Sikkim

By road: Siliguri is just over 500 kms from both Kolkata and Guwahati. So there are many overnight buses to Siliguri.

By train: There are many trains which pass through New Jalpaiguri junction, one of the major railway stations in West Bengal. It is the junction point for all the trains that travel from North Eastern states to rest of India.

By air: Bagdogra Airport, the nearest airport to Siliguri, is around 15 kms from the town.

On reaching Bagdogra Airport, my main aim was to take a share taxi to Gangtok. Unfortunately, I had found out that there will be no share taxis to Gangtok from the Airport. One can get a shared taxi from New Jalpaiguri or Siliguri but not from the Airport.

Permits Required for Sikkim

PermitRequired ForWhere to Get
Inner Line Permit (ILP)All of SikkimOnline or at entry checkposts for Indian nationals
Protected Area Permit (PAP)Foreigners onlySikkim Tourism offices
Nathu La PermitNathu La Pass onlyOnly in Gangtok — book one day in advance
Restricted Area PermitNorth SikkimGangtok Tourism offices

Indian nationals can obtain the ILP free of charge at the entry checkposts at Rangpo or Melli on the way from Siliguri. For Nathu La, the permit must be booked in Gangtok one day in advance — only 75 vehicles are allowed per day and it sells out fast on weekends and holidays.

Visitor Information

DetailInfo
CapitalGangtok
Best time to visitMarch to June, October to December
AvoidJuly to September — heavy monsoon, risk of landslides
Nearest airportBagdogra (IXB) — 124 km from Gangtok
Nearest railway stationNew Jalpaiguri (NJP) — 148 km from Gangtok
Transport from NJP/BagdograShared taxis from NJP and Siliguri — not from airport directly
CurrencyIndian Rupee — carry cash, ATMs limited beyond Gangtok
LanguageNepali, Sikkimese, Hindi, English

Gangtok

Gangtok the largest town in Sikkim situated at an altitude of around 5000ft above sea level. Gangtok is a popular Buddhist pilgrimage center with Tibetology and Rumtek Monastery near Gangtok.

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First day I started with Nathu La. But before that one needs to book a day before your travel date. Only 75 cars are allowed to visit Nathu La per day. Two passport photographs and one photo ID is required for booking. Both sharing and group packages are available for Nathu La. Only permitted rented vehicles are allowed to travel to Nathu La. Bikes and owned vehicles are not allowed. Only owned Army vehicles are allowed through this route.

Changu Lake/Tsomgo Lake

Changu Lake is a glacial lake on the way towards Nathu La from Gangtok. It is at an atltitude of 12000ft and remains frozen during winter season. This lake is revered by local Sikkimese people. Short Yak rides are worth trying here.

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Nathu La Pass

Nathu La is a mountain pass along Indo-China border which has a very important place in ancient and modern history. It is around 54kms from Gangtok and at an altitude of more than 14,000ft. It was the part of Old Silk Route and now an important trade route between Indian and China. This was closed after the 1962 Indo-Sino war and reopened from 2006. One can see a small one foot fence dividing the countries. It takes one whole day to visit Nathu Laand travel back to Gangtok. Photography is not allowed in and near Nathu La.

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Temi tea estate

Second day from Gangtok I had visited Temi tea estate. I had started from Gangtok at 7 o’clock in the morning and reached Temi by 9 by rented car. It was a pleasant experience looking at children going to their schools, waiting for the lift to be dropped at their schools. Sitting at the cafeteria, looking at the estate and sipping the local tea are simply an amazing experience. The Temi tea estate is covering around an area of 177 hectares and the altitude ranges from 4900ft to 6500ft above sea level. The tea produced here is of the export quality exported to European countries.

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Ravangla — Buddha Park

The Buddha park near Ravangla is a must visit place. It was constructed between 2006 and 2013 with 130 feet statue as the centerpiece. The park area is beautifully landscaped creating ample walkaway, gardens and space for visitors to enjoy the serene surroundings. The paintings inside the statue depicting the life of Siddhartha, his transformation to Buddha and his preaching after attaining Nirvana makes you awestruck.

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Samdruptse

Yet another 140 feet statue of Lord Padmasambhava on a hill top of Tendong Hill near Namchi. But this doesn’t have a park and the statue sits at the commanding position of 7000 ft above sea level.

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Namchi – Char Dham

Last but not the least; Char Dham has brought Namchi on the tourist map. Char Dham has found its name as it has the replicas of four temples (Badrinath, Puri, Dwaraka and Rameshawaram) also popularly known as Dhams in India. The complex also has 80 feet statue of Lord Shiva and 12 jyotirlinga temples surrounding the statue of Mahadev.

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Food in Sikkim

This blog is incomplete without food. Let me start with Wai Wai, this is a spicier version of Maggi, available mostly in North East. This is yet to make its mark in other states of India. Now comes momos and are found everywhere in Sikkim. A simple white flour dumpling, with different fillings depending on one’s taste, is a snack worth trying in Sikkim. Thukpa is a Tibetian noodle soup is popular in Indian states like Sikkim, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh and in Ladakh.

Sikkim Food

Frequently Asked Questions about Sikkim

Q: Do Indian nationals need a permit to visit Sikkim? Yes — Indian nationals require an Inner Line Permit (ILP) to enter Sikkim. It is available free of charge at the entry checkposts at Rangpo or Melli on the way from Siliguri. It can also be obtained online through the Sikkim government portal. Carry a government-issued photo ID along with the permit at all times as it will be checked at multiple points.

Q: How do I reach Gangtok from Bagdogra Airport? Shared taxis are not available directly from Bagdogra Airport to Gangtok. Take a local taxi or auto-rickshaw from the airport to Siliguri or New Jalpaiguri railway station — from there shared taxis to Gangtok are available throughout the day. The journey takes approximately 4 hours from Siliguri to Gangtok.

Q: How do I book the Nathu La permit? The Nathu La permit must be booked in Gangtok one day before your visit. Only 75 vehicles are allowed per day and only permitted rented vehicles are allowed on this route — personal vehicles and bikes are strictly not permitted. Two passport photographs and one photo ID are required for booking. Permits are available through registered tour operators in Gangtok.

Q: What is Temi Tea Estate famous for? Temi Tea Estate is Sikkim’s only tea estate and one of the highest altitude tea gardens in India, situated between 4,900 and 6,500 feet above sea level. It produces premium Sikkim tea exported to European countries. The estate has a cafeteria where visitors can sit, enjoy the sweeping views, and sip locally produced tea — one of the most peaceful experiences in all of Sikkim.

Q: What is Namchi Char Dham? Namchi Char Dham is a complex in Namchi, South Sikkim, which houses replicas of India’s four sacred Dhams — Badrinath, Puri, Dwarka, and Rameshwaram — along with a towering 80-foot statue of Lord Shiva surrounded by 12 Jyotirlinga temples. It was built to bring the essence of India’s four dhams to Sikkim and has become one of the most visited religious sites in South Sikkim.

Q: What is the best time to visit Sikkim? March to June is ideal for clear mountain views and pleasant weather. October to December is also excellent after the monsoon clears — views of Kanchenjunga are best during this period. Avoid July to September as Sikkim receives very heavy monsoon rainfall during these months, roads can be blocked by landslides, and many tourist spots become inaccessible.

Q: Is Nathu La worth visiting? Yes — Nathu La is one of the few places in India where you can stand on the Indo-China border and see the Chinese side just a few feet away. The drive through Changu Lake and the mountain passes is as spectacular as the destination itself. However the altitude is above 14,000 feet and altitude sickness is a real concern — acclimatise in Gangtok for at least one full day before attempting Nathu La.

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