Waiting for Balli – Our Navegaon Ramdegi Safari at Tadoba

Most people would have called it a day.

We had woken up at 3:45 AM, driven 54 kilometres to Somnath Gate, spotted a leopard, waited over an hour near a water stream, and watched two tiger cubs play in the water. By the time we got back to the resort at 10:45 AM, we were running entirely on excitement and adrenaline.

Read more about the safari here –> Somnath Buffer Zone Safari

And then we signed up for a second safari the same afternoon.

Navegaon Safari Gate entrance signboard at Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve at dusk — Navegaon Safari Gate — our starting point for an afternoon that would test our patience and reward it entirely

The Break in Between

After getting back, we cleaned up and rested for a couple of hours. Since we had eaten our packed breakfast during the morning safari, we weren’t very hungry — but by 1:00 PM, when lunch was served at the resort, we were at the dining table.

The afternoon safari at Navegaon Gate starts at 3:30 PM, and the gate is about 45 minutes from our resort. We had planned to leave with a bit of time to spare — but after a long morning, the resort’s comfort was hard to resist. We ended up leaving 5 to 10 minutes later than planned.

The resort staff had packed us snacks for this safari too — sandwiches and juice. We grabbed them on the way out and headed to Navegaon Gate.

A Last-Minute Arrival — And a Different Kind of Guide

We reached the Navegaon Gate at exactly 3:30 PM. No buffer time, no early arrival. Just on the dot.

Thankfully the other safari vehicles hadn’t left yet. We quickly checked our tickets, were assigned a vehicle, and met our guide for the afternoon — an older man who, it became clear within minutes, had spent a lifetime in these forests.

The contrast with our morning guide was immediate. As soon as we entered the forest, he began explaining Tadoba — its history, its structure, the trees around us. This wasn’t rehearsed tourism commentary. It was the quiet knowledge of someone who knew this place deeply.

Understanding Tadoba — More Than Just Tigers

As we drove in, our guide gave us a brief but fascinating history of the reserve.

Tadoba National Park was established in 1955, originally covering 116.55 sq km. In 1986, the Andhari Wildlife Sanctuary, spanning 508.85 sq km, was merged with it to form the Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve. As the tiger population expanded, more territory was needed — and so the buffer zones were created. The buffer zone alone covers 1,102 sq km, bringing the total reserve area to 1,727 sq km.

For us, who had been exploring buffer zones all trip, this context was genuinely valuable. We were not in a secondary part of the reserve — we were in a significant, thriving section of one of India’s most important tiger habitats.

The guide then pointed out two trees I haven’t stopped thinking about since.

The first was the Ghost Tree — named for its smooth, white-silver bark that catches the moonlight at night. In the dark, these trees glow faintly, giving the forest an eerie, otherworldly quality.

The second was the Mahua tree. Its flowers carry a strong, intoxicating fragrance — so potent that they are used to brew local alcohol. The more remarkable detail is what the fragrance does to wildlife. When the Mahua is in full bloom, animals from across the forest — bears, deer, even tigers — are drawn irresistibly to it. Our guide mentioned that some of the best wildlife sightings happen near Mahua trees during flowering season.

Both trees are easy to walk past without a second glance. A knowledgeable guide changes everything.

Early Sightings

About 15 minutes into the drive, we reached a nearby waterbody. No tiger yet — but two spotted deer appeared in the distance. They were alert almost immediately. The moment our vehicle edged toward them, they turned and bolted. Our guide signalled the driver to stop, not wanting to disturb them further.

Two spotted deer grazing near a waterbody with ghost trees in background at Navegaon Ramdegi Tadoba — Two spotted deer at the waterbody — and those white-barked trees behind them? Almost certainly the Ghost Trees our guide had described

A little further along, a sambar deer walked slowly along the path — a mother, with her calf close behind. There was something quietly beautiful about that small scene. Shortly after, a male sambar deer appeared on the other side of the track, unhurried and unbothered.

Two sambar deer looking directly at camera through forest foliage at Navegaon Ramdegi Tadoba — Two sambar deer pausing to look back at us — a quiet, unhurried moment before the main event

Then we came around a bend and noticed two safari vehicles parked ahead, their passengers all looking in the same direction.

Finding Balli

We pulled alongside and looked.

There, half-hidden in the bushes, was a tiger. Only his belly was visible, rising and falling slowly with each breath. Our guide identified him immediately — Balli, a male tiger approximately 8 to 9 years old, one of the well-known residents of the Navegaon Ramdegi buffer zone.

It was 4:15 PM. He was fast asleep.

Our guide’s advice was immediate and practical: stay. If we moved away and Balli got up, we would miss it entirely. So we stayed — parked under a tree, watching a sleeping tiger, going nowhere.

Over the next hour, more vehicles arrived. At its peak, there were around 10 safari jeeps waiting in the same spot, passengers chatting quietly among themselves, everyone watching the same patch of bushes with the same quiet hope. There was a particular camaraderie in it — strangers united by patience.

We ate our snacks. Our son, to his credit, was patient through the entire wait. Not restless, not asking to leave. Just watching.

The Growl

At around 5:30 PM, we heard it.

A deep, guttural growl — the sound of a large animal waking up and making itself known. Every vehicle went still instantly.

Balli was awake. His eyes were visible now, lazily scanning his surroundings. The growling continued for about 15 minutes, low and steady. Then he stood, stretched — and walked deeper into the bushes, away from the crowd.

Male tiger Balli resting and just woken up partially hidden in dense bushes at Navegaon Ramdegi Tadoba — The first glimpse of Balli — eyes just visible through the undergrowth, still lazy from his afternoon sleep

Male tiger Balli yawning with mouth open visible through dense forest at Navegaon Ramdegi Tadoba — The first glimpse of Balli — eyes just visible through the undergrowth, still lazy from his afternoon sleep

A collective sigh passed through the assembled vehicles. After more than an hour of waiting, it looked like the sighting might not happen after all.

The Payoff

At 6:00 PM, Balli moved again.

He emerged from the bushes, walked to the small waterhole nearby, and drank. Then he turned and began walking directly toward the path where all the vehicles were parked.

Every jeep made way. The crowd fell completely silent.

And then there he was — Balli in full view, walking the path with the unhurried authority of an animal that owns this forest. Cameras clicked everywhere. He looked around once, assessed the crowd with complete indifference, and continued walking until the forest swallowed him again.

Male tiger Balli walking into dry deciduous forest at Navegaon Ramdegi Buffer Zone Tadoba — After crossing the track, Balli walked back into the forest on his own terms — as only a tiger can

Our son, who had been quietly patient for nearly two hours, pressed closer to us as Balli walked out. The sheer size of the animal — fully visible, in the open, just metres away — was something else entirely compared to the cubs that morning. For a four-year-old, that is a lot to take in. For us too, honestly.

The Return

We waited another 10 minutes after Balli disappeared. Around 6:30 PM, we began the drive back.

The forest offered one more moment on the way out. A Crested Serpent Eagle was perched on a low branch right beside the track. It didn’t fly as we approached — just sat there, perfectly still, as if it had decided to pose. Every camera in the vehicle was out before the jeep had even stopped.

Crested Serpent Eagle perched on a branch in forest at Navegaon Ramdegi Buffer Zone Tadoba — The Crested Serpent Eagle on the drive back — perched perfectly still, as if posing for the camera

We doubled back briefly to the waterbody where we had first spotted the deer, hoping Balli might pass through. Our guide believed the path led that way. We waited until 7:00 PM. No sign of him.

We reached the gate at 7:30 PM sharp.

Practical Tips for Navegaon Ramdegi Safari

Distance from resort: Navegaon Gate is approximately 45 minutes from Kolara area resorts. The afternoon timing is far more manageable than the pre-dawn morning safaris — but still leave early enough to arrive before 3:30 PM.
Safari timings: The afternoon safari runs from 3:30 PM to 7:30 PM. The last hour in evening light makes for excellent wildlife photography.
Stay if your guide says stay: If a tiger is spotted early and your guide advises you to hold position, trust that advice. Two hours of waiting for Balli was entirely worth it.
Ask your guide about the forest: Not every guide volunteers information, but if yours does, lean in. The history, the Ghost tree, the Mahua — these details add a completely different layer to the experience.
Pack snacks: A four-hour afternoon safari needs sustenance. Ask your resort if they provide packed snacks, or carry your own.

Final Thoughts

The Navegaon Ramdegi safari taught us something the morning had hinted at — that in wildlife, the wait is not an obstacle to the experience. It is the experience. Balli made us wait nearly two hours. And when he finally walked out in full, every single minute of that wait felt completely justified.

Two safaris. Two entirely different stories. One extraordinary day.

For our final safari of the trip — sloth bears, a peacock’s courtship dance, and a tigress called Veera at Palasgaon → Palasgaon Safari

Vagabonding Life!